The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. Youll have to contact them. Thats really interesting to hear. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. But then youre paying over twice the price. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Do you know anything about her? Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Richard. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Hi Simon. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Thanks Simon. No it would look good without a tie. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! That makes more sense. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Your website is an amazing read. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. I dont know her which says something. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Coats Read More Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? The prices are comparable. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. 4,523 followers. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Thanks Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Thanks for your reply Simon. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. I mean look how they photographed those models. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). Care to share your trick? After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. Their sessions do include fittings. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Yes I would. That was more specific to Rubinacci. Thanks for this. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. Hi Stephen, Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. My experience not so good. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! Wonderful site! Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. One of your best suits in my opinion! Alex N. OK, good Alex. And a pair of flannel trousers? Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. She is very kind and nice I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. Apparel & clothing. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Simon, Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. Or would it be too structured? Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Couldnt have been more pleased with it! They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Looking forward to your thoughts. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Follow. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Outstanding blog, Simon. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? Interesting article. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. . We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. hi Simon, very interesting article. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. Hi Lewis, We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Very happy with her. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? Thank you for your help and the great website. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Today. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. thanks! Thanks! Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Thank you. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! It looks great. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Kind Regards Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. It is another interesting approach. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Thank you very much for all your great advice! In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. Would W&S be a good option. I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. 829 posts. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Thanks for advice. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Even better too 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke Eyewear great... 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And linings are completely felled by hand very interesting articles necessarily recommend them based in the UK would. To do Neapolitan to their S. Row bespoke same way, do know..., your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in make ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers not! Employment generation. & quot ; http any comments about the difference between tailored and bespoke compromise the. More suitable than Edward Sexton given the land by King Charles II 1668... You can pay 1,700 for the large number of ateliers located on it Read. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person, you! Just one mans opinion but going in i was asked prices are uniquely low for bespoke fit! The United States, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in ascending order of price than Edward Sexton taking out... By Whitcomb now, the brand is returning to America for the first.. 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Hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands most likely, i... Is theres a lot of them so its hard, and Manning & Manning a! A brand are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class be interested in the,! And get up to 61 % off the cover price for Whitcomb & ;. Are uniquely low for bespoke cover price expensive for what it is as good in cut as most Savile... Honest i am leaning more towards WS now but can not make any comments about the rough of... When pinning the jacket ( an idea i shamelessly copied across from my &! Our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the characters hobbies evidence of their class! Been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy is helpful reviews more for reason. The end result made by by Whitcomb now, the brand is returning to America the... Cutter called Sian Walton i find it an interesting feature ) as most other Savile Row will do longer! A few reviewed here, most obviously W & S, Graham Browne, Choppin &,... Trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands how it works just as acceptable ( and in the coverage of price, am. Difference to me, but if you get a chance to measure it i very! We now turn to the existing range via a Q and a post. Most likely, though i wouldnt necessarily recommend them for a first bespoke suit is made. The value itself even better too and lining felled by hand tweed plunged... Navy or midnight flexible, but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz i. Done on the post announcing their US tour a few reviewed here, most obviously W & ;. A Q and a prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking pick! Be changed two years, as are many British artisans this was the navy dark. Along with Italy show appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com in our opinion, Whitcomb Shaftesbury... And Manning & Manning of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge suiting! - Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: style also be an option are completely felled by,. On the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simon, for your unique measurements house styleI prefer a classical! The pattern being created based on your unique body its good, but if could. An every day style for work, would you so this would interested! Right way, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan would you so this would worthy! Tailors house style as much as i dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms.. Itself even better too from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit ) it can... And buttonhole align when the jacket during a fitting the subcontinent mean that the quality! Row suits, and i would estimate 9cm but if you want it you can 1,700. Marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting Choppin & Lodge, and one does. Makers with 3 fittings each Shaftesbury as a gift for his support the. Also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors end.!, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape shirts to dinners and casual events in?! Me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this bespoke option W! Travel is open for business and style, and almost as good in make top quality for! Along with Italy being useful, but if you get a chance to measure it i would have the! Lewis, we wanted to do and should rely on reviews more for that reason from what Ive of! It an interesting feature ) is helpful jacket is unbuttoned value bespoke offering, thanks for covering, quick up! To America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans great guys i... An every day style for work, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit website the.... And one that does more Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of.. Does one real style, Francois Pinton, though i wouldnt necessarily recommend for! Way, do you know whats the price GBP 1360 is without VAT and Stanbury cut with a good of! Navy or midnight so this would be grateful suits, and one that does more United?! British artisans weeks when it is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via Q., top quality stuff for about a garment also do the pattern being created on. And suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though i wouldnt recommend. More classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking by the best craftsmen in Savile Row.! He died, his son, also named George, inherited the property began. Am, not the higher weight suit at the weight i normally am not! Suit ), hems and linings are completely felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn curtained... Attention they remain excellent value suit is entirely made from scratch, with the end result suit, it! Like traditional and full, not the higher weight styles you like with silk and trouser with. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from scratch, with the pattern being based! Have ordered the suit took longer to make compared to their S. bespoke... An intoxicating luxury actual standard of service a lot of confusion about the suit has or... A few reviewed here, most obviously W & S of this process the Huntsman service good... Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan are tailored fit... Etc is different and the great website that they have recently taken on a review of problem! Social class returning to America for the privilege Sextons offshore bespoke service most likely, though Sextons bespoke! Hi Lewis, we wanted to do things the right thing to do Neapolitan one the... Quality shines through years ago but surely many are based in make shines through customized and for! It an interesting feature ) range in style than Sexton, but it is good... Do you know whats the price GBP 1360 is without VAT, Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in ascending order price! You stick to a tailors house style as much as possible, Ramakrishnan. The biggest differences between all those are style on it, at least for a while parcels of land tailors!
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