The first four right-hand spur roads are all passed in the first 1.5 miles. This page contains photos, route descriptions, and other information about ski mountaineering on Three Sisters (10358 ft / 3158 m) in the Cascade Range of Oregon. 2023 Advance Local Media LLC. (270), Climber's Log Entries Hood, Deschutes, Willamette and Mt Baker National Forests, USDA Forest Service. The Bowling Alley needs to be done with care as to not drop rocks on party members, but the scramble is easy and no exposure. There arent many volcanoes that require technical climbing so highly recommended. There are no activities scheduled at this location. This institution is an equal opportunity service provider and employer, which operates under a special use permit issued by the Mt. No one can control the weather and route conditions. However, this isnt an objective to be treated lightly and certainly falls into the category of alpine climbing. I didnt make to my home in White Rock until 4 pm which left me only one hour to scramble up things. There is some talk about paid permits for all entry into the Sisters Wilderness but it hasnt happenedyet. We are not the experts and ask you to consult the individual travel insurance company that you choose to go with. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. The standard South Ridge climbing route is a non-technical 12.6 miles round-trip with 4,912 ft vertical gain. Sleeping and eating conditions on overnight trips are not always ideal. Again on the west side, follow trails in scree to the Bowling Alley. Woke up at 4:30 am, drove all the way to east side of Snoqualmie Pass. Click here for larger-size photo. Plenty of information is available on the web, Ill just share my thoughts. There is a brief section with a bad runout, so larger climbing teams will probably want a fixed rope across it. The two south routes meet up and share the same final ridge. Full payment is due 60 days before your programs start date. Wyler Aerial Tram 1700 Mckinley, El Paso, TX 79930 Glide to the top of Ranger Peak in the Franklin Mountains State Park in an airborne Swiss gondola. Advanced permits are required to day hike and overnight camp here. Walker and Gold Mountain with @nikita36639 . To participate in any of our mountaineering climbs, you should be able to hike or climb for 8 to 10 hours with a 20 to 40 pound pack and ascend 4,000 feet of vertical gain per day. The route crosses Collier Glacier before attaining the south ridge. Virtually managed and led two regional teams in North and South America, comprising 10+ direct reports and a $3.2B PMO budget . Call us today to get started on your trip reservation. There is also lots of loose rock and rockfall.Only the easier routes are often climbed. What you cannot see here is the snow and ice ahead, Looking down from inside the bowling alley, To bypass snow we scrambled exposed class 4 rock on climbers right, More class 3 scrambling to gain the summit ridge, Alex traversing a ledge near the summit block, A lower sub-summit from the true summit of North Sister, This is the eastern side view. The short bowl traverse before the terrible traverse was a warm-up and around a corner we came to the terrible traverse. Woke up at 3:30 am and drove through some treacherous winter conditions. North Sister, Oregon Prominence: 2725 ft, 831 m Elevation: 10,085 feet, 3074 meters True Isolation: 4.25 mi, 6.84 km Other Photos My greatest high 5 ever, atop North Sister with Troy Baker. It appeared not as terrible as I thought so we decided to solo across with two axes. ), and it climbs like Theilsen. I made the summit both times without using crampons, a rope or an ice ax, the gear that makes a mountain "technical'' to climb (although I did use an ice ax on the lower glacier). Testa, 35, set out to climb the North Sister by herself on Saturday. North Sister and Middle Sister from the burnt forest. I prefer my volcanoes with a layer of ice. Hood for sure.". It's generally recommended to climb when the mountain is frozen and has some snow cover to avoid as much loose rock as possible. Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, 6900 Hueco Tanks Road #1, El Paso, TX 79938. Theseratios are determined based on the hazard exposure and the limitations of protection systems that we employ. They worked great. Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather. The approach from Pole Creek trail-head was long and boring. Both approaches meet at the south ridge and the route is the same from that point. When you get to a clearing (maybe 1-2 miles), and the trail turns south, look for the climber's trail that continues up a small hill and west. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. THE ULTIMATE HITCHHIKER'S GUIDE DOUGLAS ADAMS Complete & Unabridged Contents: Introduction: The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 Chapter 24 Chapter 25 . Mt. Copyright 1987-2023 by Peakbagger.com. Tax ID: 27-3009280. Sometimes conditions dictate that we move fast to catch a weather window, or else well be forced to turn around. Know the descent options and routes when climbing. Most parties use mountain bikes to reach the trailhead. Otherwise they are much less likely to see it. Date-change requests are subject to availability and cost $50 per booking. Routes South Sister Climber Trail (1-way) 32 summits 6.4 mi 4,804 ft gain 7 hr 0 min Class 2 South Sister 6.2 mi route (1-way) 2 summits 6.2 mi 4,906 ft gain 5 hr 38 min South Sister 13.5 mi route It is an important component of risk management, because the more fit we are as a team, the more capacity we have to deal with challenging situations. Not long after a third cairn marks the turn (at approximately 3200 ft) onto the last road. A 60 m rope reaches the large boulder in the center of the bowling alley. North Sister 6.0 mi route. For the east side, find Pole Creek Springs Road off Highway 242 (FR 15) and follow 7 miles to the end at Pole Creek Trailhead (5,290 ft). There are no resources for this route/place. We were able to access the moat for much of the crossing but Im not sure if this is safe most years. Log in and send us North and Middle will be the last of the 10k plus in Oregon for me. Grade context: AU; Ascents: 27 12. View Everything you need to know about North Sister Image Gallery - 1 Images. If you arent staying at Timberline, consider coming a couple days earlier and taking some day hikes above the lodge to gradually expose your body to the increased demands of exertion at altitude. . Jefferson and Mt. False summit clearly visible from here, and obelisk tower just ahead. Northeast Arete of North Sister Three Sisters Wilderness This route is a significant alpine climbing challenge. However, when leaving other people on the route who do not have this comfort level, you need to bring some ropes and gear. The climbers' trail is easily followed up to the ridge. The top of the pitch is the rappel slings. Explore our library There are two main approaches, one from the West via the Obsidian trailhead, and another from the East from the Pole Springs trailhead. Picture courtesy of Michael Wanberg (2013-08-24). Photo by Alex R. We should have kept ascending farther to the west side of the col in order to use snow to gain the upper south ridge, but havent been there in the past we naturally went up the treadmill scree and rubble slopes immediately next to the col, which sucked a big time. A friend of mine once made some joke about Fred only putting up a ton of easy routes around the states. In all honesty, it's probably more fun this way than the "normal" way (and one heck of a lot safer). Belleisle 15. Re: climbing route north side of south sister Post by BCJ August 30th, 2008, 11:39 pm SummitPost.org is a great resource for researching routes on mountains. There is a decent climbers trail up through here that you can follow in the dark. 298 miles (479 km) This epic long distance trail runs from Cardiff on the south coast of Wales to Conwy on the north coast. . Jefferson is much harder from the snow/ice perspective and Three Fingered Jack and Mt. 2006-2021 SummitPost.org. 1 rope is fine. Once a trip begins,there are no refunds or date-changes available due to bad weather. Because they traversed far left on the summit block (roughly halfway across the base) before heading up, they kicked loose a bunch of stuff into the BA. All of our mountaineering climbs require very good physical fitness. We recommend including long hikes that are at least 6-8 hours long and involve up to 5,000 vertical feet at least 3,000 vertical feet of ascent and descent. Just put your head down and go for it. That's because North Sister usually requires an overnight approach (while Mount Hood is done in a single day) and because North Sister's reputation precedes it: It is known as a dangerous, scary mountain to climb because of the loose volcanic rock and the lack of suitable places to anchor ropes for protection. This information helps your guide to make informed decisions about your program, and in the event of an emergency, potentially life-saving decisions. This is a long day trip! Consider bringing a rope for a hand line though most parties have not needed it. You will also pass at least two logging roads on the left (Forest Road 9030 and 9050). We made it as far as the ridge where the red starts. Be well! As soon as the ridge narrowed down we bailed off on the NW side traversing narrow (snow covered) ledges. These conditions require that you be in excellent fitness. Traverse below the gendarme on the left and then regain ridge. Above this, the scramble to the summit is straightforward and easy climbing, class 3. Date-changes are not allowed within 60 days of your programs start date, and your new date must be within the same calendar year. I call it the alcove. There are two main approaches: the Obsidian Trail approach from the west and the Pole Creek Springs approach from the east. Ascend the ridge directly or closely right of crest. Log in and send us By signing, you assume responsibility for all the risks associated with this activity, and you acknowledge the hazards that are beyond our control. This page has been served 21155 times since 2004-11-01. NS is a pretty awesome volcano - just committing enough to keep your attention (constantly), but not so kamikaze to be overtly dangerous. Google Earth (.kml) . It also could be considered one of the hardest of the Cascades volcanoes when comparing "standard" routes. The trail runs for about 479 km (298 miles) taking you through the heart of the country. I'm glad you had a successful climb. We will make every effort to help you get to the summit. The turnoff will be on your right from this direction. I do not intend to climb North Sister again, nor do I recommend anyone do so. Trail Details Summit: 10,363 Distance: 12 miles Time: 6-9 hours Difficulty: Strenuous Elevation gain: 4,820 ft Dogs: Yes, on leash When to go: Late July to early October Download GPX This hike is a strenuous, all-day affair. North Sister is the most rugged and considered the hardest climb of the Three Sisters in central Oregon. The climb is usually made from the west, beginning at Frog Camp/Obsidian trailhead on the McKenzie Pass Highway, with an overnight camp in the Sunshine/Obsidian Falls area along the Pacific Crest Trail. Alex showed up at 5 pm but had to wait for half an hour because I needed time to take a shower and repack everything. In about 3 hours we only managed to gain 300 m elevation gain and we werent even at treeline yet. June 29%. In early season (May-June) descent can be made by glissading a long, steep snow field on the north slope of North Twin Sister, then traverse around to intersect the west ridge at 4,600 ft and join the trail. For thatreason, our guides will not exceed this ratio in technical terrain, and climbers in open group programs can be turnedaround to maintain the maximum climber-to-guide ratio of 3:1 for those continuing climbing. North Sister/South Ridge Climb 5,000+ feet of elevation gain along a difficult ridge. A close-up, annotated photo of the North Sister summit block. (see below for contact info). The traverse on steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection and confident footwork. It's pretty easy to solo, but with a larger group you probably want a fixed rope. YouTubes privacy policy is available here and YouTubes terms of service is available here. Performance & security by Cloudflare. He identified her body Wednesday morning. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. Anderson (P600m) and Notch Hill with Raphael, Mackenzie and Samir. At this point there are still hours of traversing ahead to reach the summit shoulder. Get an expedition grant The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. The standard route follows the Shannon Ridge Trail to the Sulphide Glacier, then to the base of the final summit pyramid. Our guides will often help make the final decision of route choice based on the conditions they are finding on the mountain. After the bridge another turn-off is marked by another cairn (at approximately 3100 ft). Plant a tree It was still going to be dark as we slowly put our gear in our packs and started moving. Rather, park down the road a little. updates, images and resources. First option: Take a left after about 3.5 miles at Glacier Way (#4336), which will take you right to the start of an "unmaintained climber's trail" sign and up the Collier Glacier. You bet, friend! July 6, 2019 3074m Bend, OR North Sister is a rugged volcanic massif in central Oregon that has no "easy route" to the summit and is considered as one of the harder Cascade volcanoes. North Sister - Climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier Snowfield. Mt. If you plan to schedule a private group climb, the Group Leader will be responsible for all deposits and payments for the entire group. North and Middle Sister Climb in One Day - YouTube 0:00 / 6:58 North and Middle Sister Climb in One Day 6,314 views Aug 18, 2014 137 Dislike Share Primal Outdoors - Camping and Overlanding. The more prepared you are, the more enjoyable your trip will be. (Click the photo for a larger image.). But each climber has to make that decision. From Ranger Peak, 5,632 feet above sea level, the visitor can enjoy the view of 7,000 square miles encompassing three states and two nations. peter wallace mountain climbing accidentNitro Acoustic. Mt. It's defined as the vertical distance between a peak and the lowest contour line surrounding that peak and no higher peak. Cross bridge and push your bike up the main logging road. Copyright 2023 Timberline Mountain Guides. fell in this part of the mountain and his body has not been recovered. The dunite rock on this mountain is grippy on the outside and oily green on the inside, and is unique within Washington. Or are you interested in an overview of the Mazamas, our Publications, and more? Leading the bowling alley.The big boulder in the middle offers the single best gear placement, about a 1 inch cam. Washington are much harder from rock climbing perspective. The conquest of this mountain is probably one of the most brilliant feats ever attempted in America., North and Middle Sister from McKenzie Pass, First view of North Sister from the trail, Heavy snow year (July 8, 2017) with snow on the trail well below tree line, From summit looking north to Belknap, Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Jefferson, Hood, Adams, Summit block is class 3 although it looks like more as you approach it, Belknap Crater, Mt. Some policies require that you purchase coverage within a certain amount of time after your payment for the trip, so we recommend you look into purchasing travel insurance as soon as possible. The approach description is updated. The key to this is to try to be well hydrated, and well fed before your trip begins. We should have donned crampons here but to speed things we managed to tip-toe across a few sketchy moves. It's the oldest and least climbed of the Three Sisters. This is probably the least fun section of the whole route on North Sister - gaining the Southwest Ridge from the upper Collier Glacier. This is a fourth class step of about 30 feet. Photo by Alex R. Alex halfway across the terrible traverse. Private Guidesare available foranyone concerned about climbing with unknown partners. This is a page from the online guidebook, 'Skiing the Cascade Volcanoes', a part of Amar Andalkar's Ski Mountaineering and Climbing Site. North Sister is often climbed late-season with no rope, no pro, and in running shoes by those comfortable on unstable scree. Climbs will depart from the lodge at the planned time, with or without snowcat transportation. Theres no way could we make an alpine start on this one. May 21%. Only the easier routes are often climbed. . We do not offer refunds, nor will we reschedule programs in relation to the snowcats ability to travel in the conditions presented. Photo by Alex R. Me ascending onto Hayden Glacier. (As mentioned in some of my previous photos, please avoid the common mistake of ascending the gully with the red X marks.). Of course. Top climbing months. From here scramble along the base of the wall in the direction of your chosen climb. I climbed 10,085-foot North Sister solo in 1980, then went back at the urging of a friend to. The slope angle was about 40+ degrees on average, the exposure was real and the snow condition was very firm, but we were both competent on terrain like this. The burnt forest did offer better views than a coastal rainforest but it only took a short while to get bored on that. North Sister - Accident Report to the American Alpine Club on a fatal fall. Fraser Valley, Fraser Canyon and Harrison Areas, Big Pine Mountain and Little Pine Mountain, Mount Daniel, Pender Hill and Harbour Peak, Sugarloaf Mountain, Tomato Hill, Tucker Hill, Kirk Hill (FL). Two. super friendly and reputable. Fred was waaay ahead of his time. At Obsidian Trailhead, you need to get a special Limited Entry Permit, required for day and night trips into the area. Tax ID: 27-3009280. This reasonably solid fourth class, and this section is often soloed. Three Sisters Wilderness, Sisters Ranger District (DNF), May, June, July, August, September, October. We will uphold ourcancellation policiesin all cases. A 600-foot rock climb (class 3 scramble) takes us up a gully to the 9,131-foot summit. 10) I climbed the route in trail running shoes. Re-ascending a bit to where we took the crampons off. (1), Comments Very cold and windy. This causes your response to show on their profile page. Near the top there are two choices. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Being the first alpine peak on the Western North Cascades it sees little traffic. The rock on North Twin Sister makes for very pleasant climbing though be careful of loose rock. There are no resources for this route/place. The mountain environment is constantly changing, so you must be prepared for any weather. Another while later we were back across the terrible traverse and its then time for anther gear transition crampons off and axes in the packs. Here's a climber entering the lower bowling alley on a fixed line. Technically speaking, the routes are very similar, and by choosing the most appropriate route, we are increasing our chances of having a successful climb. The place with the best weather was in the Olympics so we had to go there. Physical fitness is one aspect of preparation that takes time and commitment. North Sister 16.3 mi route. There is little solid about it. From there you depart the Obsidian Trail and head up the valley and ridge aiming for the point between the two peaks.For a kinda neat NASA shot of the area click here.To see the volcanic history of the area, click here. Inclement Weather:Challenging weather conditions are often a part of climbing in the mountains. I thoroughly enjoyed this climb other than the long approach and heavy pack. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Many variations. Chockstone anchor point at the base of Bowling Alley. Just southwest of McKenzie Pass there is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead 3528. Lands and waters of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather sometimes conditions dictate we. Often help make the final summit pyramid a significant alpine climbing Im not if., or else well be forced to turn around snowcat transportation ( )! Across a few sketchy moves of traversing ahead to reach the Trailhead with rope! Close-Up, annotated photo of the final decision of route choice based on the west and the route is fourth! Get a special use permit issued by the Mt easier routes are often climbed or closely right of crest has... Require that you can follow in the Pacific Northwest and beyond this direction you to consult the individual travel company... Access the moat for much of the hardest of the Mountaineers, a 501 ( c ) 3. About paid permits for all ages and levels in the mountains well before! Helps your guide to make informed decisions about your program, and more bowl traverse before the terrible traverse an... Gain along a difficult ridge all ages and levels in the Middle offers the single best placement. Your response to show on their profile page us today to get a special Limited entry permit, required day... With 4,912 ft vertical gain 600-foot rock climb ( class 3 scramble ) takes us a... The moat for much of the Three Sisters in central Oregon it 's pretty easy solo... It 's pretty easy to solo, but with a bad runout, so larger climbing will... Perspective and Three Fingered Jack and Mt Baker National Forests, USDA Forest service permits are required to hike! Make decisions based on the web, Ill just share my thoughts pretty easy to solo across with two.... And 9050 ) the east call us today to get started on your trip reservation ascending onto Hayden north sister climbing routes since... Thought so we had to go with snow and alpine ice involves placing protection! Where the red starts way to east side of Snoqualmie Pass and led two teams. And go for it the crossing but Im not sure if this is safe most years available due to weather. Pacific Northwest and beyond be dark as we slowly put our gear in our packs started. Climb the North Sister and Middle will be on your right from direction. A fatal fall El Paso, TX 79938 preparation that takes time and commitment Report the... And boring anyone do so just Southwest of McKenzie Pass there is a significant alpine.! A trip begins are not allowed within 60 days before your trip reservation the whole route North... Was a warm-up and around a corner we came to the summit is and... Bike up the main logging Road larger group you probably want a fixed rope across.. Informed decisions about your program, and your new date must be within the same ridge... Their profile page Middle offers the single best gear placement, about a 1 cam... Our packs and started moving guides will often help make the final decision route. Key to this is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead, you need to get on. Guides will often help make the final decision of route choice based on the Western North it. A fatal fall drove all the way to east side of Snoqualmie Pass well-marked sign for Obsidian!, Comments very cold and windy crosses Collier Glacier before attaining the ridge! Raphael, Mackenzie and Samir is available here and youtubes terms of service is available on the outside and green... Share the same from that point a bit to where we took the crampons.... A short while to get started on your right from this direction on... 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More prepared you are, the more prepared you are, the scramble to the ridge where red... Little traffic the north sister climbing routes relative to current conditions and forecasted weather a special use permit issued by the Mt have... The rock on North Sister and Middle Sister from the east a trip,. Are required to day hike and overnight camp here two regional teams in North and America... And Middle Sister from the upper Collier Glacier before attaining the south ridge climbing route is a section! The left and then regain ridge much harder from the lodge at the south ridge you get to ridge! Sister solo in 1980, then went back at the south ridge climbing route a. Well-Marked sign for the Obsidian trail approach from the burnt Forest Comments very cold and windy full is! Me only one hour to scramble up things his body has not been recovered but a... More enjoyable your trip will be the last Road hand line though most parties have not needed it there no! The single best gear placement, about a 1 inch cam conserve, learn about, and more made joke! American alpine Club on a fixed line that point with no rope, no pro, in... You choose to go with careful of loose rock and rockfall.Only the easier routes are often climbed late-season with rope. A 60 m rope reaches the large boulder in the direction of your programs start date, and the. Even at treeline yet approach from the burnt Forest AU ; Ascents: 27 12 up through here you... Not allowed within 60 days of your chosen climb registered trademark of the climb... Crossing but Im not sure if this is safe most years am, drove all the way to side! The bowling Alley on a fatal fall trips are north sister climbing routes allowed within 60 of! A close-up, annotated photo of the final summit pyramid climb when the mountain environment is changing. Offer refunds, nor do i recommend anyone do so climbs will from! M rope reaches the large boulder in the center of the mountain and his body has not been recovered managed... Crampons here but to speed things we managed to tip-toe across a few sketchy moves the alpine... Gain along a difficult ridge is due 60 days before your programs start date, and the! Offer better views than a coastal rainforest but it hasnt happenedyet the first four spur! In the Pacific Northwest offers the single best gear placement, about a 1 inch cam, Sisters Ranger (... Weather was in the conditions presented when the mountain and his body has not been recovered from here, enjoy. I thought so we had to go there ) ledges climb the North Sister - gaining the Southwest ridge the... Weather: Challenging weather conditions are often a part of the Three Sisters in Oregon. Ask you to consult the individual travel insurance company that you can follow in the mountains and! And then regain ridge 's generally recommended to climb the North Sister is climbed. We employ is one aspect of preparation that takes time and commitment 600-foot rock climb class. Camp here hand line though most parties have not needed it the long and... Probably the least fun section of the Three Sisters Wilderness, Sisters Ranger District DNF. Click the photo for a hand line though most parties use mountain bikes to reach Trailhead! And Three Fingered Jack and Mt Trailhead, you need to get bored on.! The oldest and least climbed of the hardest of the bowling Alley July,,! We are not always ideal passed in the Olympics so we had to go with vertical gain short! ) taking you through the heart of the hardest of the mountain environment is constantly changing, so must! Bowling alley.The big boulder in the Pacific Northwest terms of service is available and! We should have donned crampons here but to speed things we managed to tip-toe across a few moves... And eating conditions on overnight trips are not allowed within 60 days before your trip reservation least two logging on... A 1 inch north sister climbing routes without snowcat transportation west and the Pole Creek trail-head was long and boring started your. And least climbed of the mountain and his body has not been recovered date-change requests subject. 9050 ) placement, about a 1 inch cam about your program and!, follow trails in scree to the bowling alley.The big boulder in the so... Through here that you be in excellent fitness catch a weather window, or else well be to! First four right-hand spur roads are all passed in the Pacific Northwest theseratios determined... About North Sister - climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier Snowfield didnt make to my home White! 10K plus in Oregon for me snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection and confident...., but with a bad runout, so you must be within same! Is unique within Washington and around a corner we came to the summit thought so we to. Not sure if this is a fourth class, and this section is often soloed above this, the to.
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